Walla Walla’s Dia de Los Muertos observance has grown into one of the community’s best-kept secrets. That’s because until now, a major aspect of it has taken place downstairs from downtown restaurant Grandma’s Kitchen.
But this year, the Day of the Dead ofrendas — altars — that have been on display for viewing and celebration at the Colville Street business will now become a must-see exhibit in the rotating gallery at Fort Walla Walla Museum.
Starting Oct. 13, the altars and artwork of Walla Walla’s Mexican community and beyond will be on display in celebration of the holiday that welcomes back their deceased loved ones. The tradition continues Sunday, Nov. 3, with a Dia de los Muertos afternoon parade through downtown Walla Walla coordinated by Grandma’s Kitchen owner Manuel Perez and followed by a fiesta at Heritage Square Park. From the dining room of his restaurant, he shared roots of the local event and where it’s going.
How did your celebration start?
The one who started it all really was my mother (Josefina Cruz, the restaurant’s famed “Grandma”). She would tell me, ‘We have to keep the tradition alive.’ About 10 years ago, I started with an ofrenda downstairs on small tables.
Dia de los Muertos has a lot of history. Aztecs believed that dying was the second part of our lives. It was an honor to die. You completed the first part of your life.
Over the years my ofrenda has grown, and now I set it up for about 30 different family members, acquaintances and friends. Year by year, it started to grow through customers who wanted to add their ofrendas.
After last year’s Dia de los Muertos parade, this place was packed. That gave me more confidence to put this in a more public space. One of the people who attended was from the museum. That is how the partnership started. The ofrendas will be at the museum, and they will have material for reading so people can learn more about the tradition.
What’s included in an ofrenda?
Setting up an ofrenda is like setting a table to welcome loved ones who’ve died. It has three levels. An arc at the top is like a portal or entrance between the worlds of the dead and living. Marigolds are placed around it. There is a lot of symbolism in an ofrenda. The four elements are represented: fire, wind, water and earth. Fire is represented by lit candles; wind by incense and colorful paper — papel picado; water by a glass of water; and earth by flowers and food.
You can add a photo of your loved ones and the fruit of the season. It’s tradition to put out their favorite dishes, and the scent guides the soul home. For my grandmother, I put out caldo de pollo — a chicken broth dish — and egg nog. I have enchiladas for my aunt. My madrina — godmother — loved coffee and Coca-Cola.
What I love about setting up an ofrenda is the whole family can participate. The younger generation can learn about their family members beyond just pictures. It’s a really good way to be in touch with your roots — your ancestors — and know where you’re going.
How can we catch the parade?
It runs up Main Street starting at 3 p.m. It will go from Tukanon Street to Second Avenue, and then we go to Heritage Square Park. This year, I’ve reached out to the school district to get more volunteers and participants.
We have support from the Mexican Consulate in Seattle that brings guests over to participate, too. Walla Walla last year was the first city that had a Day of the Dead parade in the state of Washington. (There have been other celebrations in the past, but this was the first parade.)
This comes on the same weekend as Fall Release, and we’re working around it so that we’re not blocking off streets during busy times but instead adding something for visitors to experience.
At Heritage Park we will have mariachi and live music, kids’ activities, makeup for children.
What do you want to see for the event in the future?
I want it to grow. My goal is to integrate all the cultures in the community. The more people who participate, the more people will know what this is about. The more we understand about each other, the better we can work together.
Day of the Dead — ‘No me olvides’ — exhibit: Fort Walla Walla Museum, Oct. 13 – Nov. 7, 2024 / 755 NE Myra Road
Dia de los Muertos parade: Nov. 3, 2024 at 3 p.m. / Main Street from Tukanon Street to Second Avenue